The Charlton Arms
Ludlow, Shropshire
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Just on the other side of the ancient bridge over the river Teme, this busy inn has been a stopping point for travellers for centuries. Try to secure a table by the window – the view of the river, with its attendant ducks and geese is utterly beguiling, as is the roofscape of the vibrant old town that rises from the far bank. Run by Cedric Bosi, younger brother of the much-lauded Claude (of Hibiscus and Bidendum fame), the kitchen turns out some pretty good food. The mainly British menu does allow the odd French slip: a Scotch egg, cooked to runny-yolk perfection, is encased in merguez-style sausage; a fish soup is delivered complete with rouille and Gruyère; a café gourmand comes with a very French range of petits fours, including chocolate opera cake and delicate macarons. But locals are just as likely to order fish and chips or a fully loaded burger from the chargrill, considering that 'this is the best and most relaxed way to eat out in Ludlow at the moment'. Staff are happy to bring a pint through from the pub, but the restaurant focus is on the reasonably priced wine list.
