The Bradley Hare

Maiden Bradley, Wiltshire

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Set in the grounds of the Duchy of Somerset Estate, this foursquare pub with rooms was formerly a dowdy drinking den called the Somerset Arms. A bright new team took charge in 2021, changed the name and replaced the worn leather sofas and pubby fittings with a comforting Country Living mix of clean stone floors, pastel blue/green hues and colourful rugs. Expectations are high with a sprightly seasonal menu aimed at savvy locals and affluent out-of-towners. Ingredients are garnered from reputable growers and producers (as well as the village’s ‘community allotment’) – a dish of ‘youthfully green’ garden peas braised with crunchy baby gem, wild garlic and mellow Spenwood cheese ticks all the boxes for freshness and flavour, while another springtime starter involves whipped cod’s roe with Wye Valley asparagus and chervil. Meat and fish specialities also deliver, from roast leg of locally reared lamb with braised runner beans and salsa verde to whole Torbay sole, generously adorned with glistening brown butter and briny samphire. Puddings keep it simple and seasonal, perhaps strawberries and ice cream or elderflower panna cotta with gooseberry shortbread. Service is knowledgeable and ‘wonderfully attentive’. Local ales are available for those who fancy a pint, while the reasonably priced wine list throws in the odd curveball such as a Bulgarian Merlot.