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The Box Tree

West Yorkshire, Ilkley - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££

A Northern powerhouse revving up its engine once again

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

When Malcolm Reid and Colin Long opened the Box Tree back in 1962, their avowed aim was to present Yorkshire’s affluent diners with a glorious cavalcade of French-accented haute cuisine in strikingly idiosyncratic surrounds. The restaurant’s towering reputation may have waned in recent years, although it is now on the up once again following its acquisition by local businessman Adam Frontal. Porcelain dogs still stand sentry at the door and the carpeting, curtains and ancient fireplaces hard back to the old days, but change is in the air. The arrival of Australian-born chef Brayden Davies (ex-Grantley Hall, Northcote et al) at the beginning of 2024 coincided with a full-scale overhaul of the kitchen and a move towards modernity on the plate. Old-school niceties such as white-gloved service have been consigned to history, although eating here is still a special occasion worth dressing up for – so expect a grand welcome from the long-serving GM and plenty of tableside ...

When Malcolm Reid and Colin Long opened the Box Tree back in 1962, their avowed aim was to present Yorkshire’s affluent diners with a glorious cavalcade of French-accented haute cuisine in strikingly idiosyncratic surrounds. The restaurant’s towering reputation may have waned in recent years, although it is now on the up once again following its acquisition by local businessman Adam Frontal. Porcelain dogs still stand sentry at the door and the carpeting, curtains and ancient fireplaces hard back to the old days, but change is in the air.

The arrival of Australian-born chef Brayden Davies (ex-Grantley Hall, Northcote et al) at the beginning of 2024 coincided with a full-scale overhaul of the kitchen and a move towards modernity on the plate. Old-school niceties such as white-gloved service have been consigned to history, although eating here is still a special occasion worth dressing up for – so expect a grand welcome from the long-serving GM and plenty of tableside saucing amping up the no-choice tasting menu into an ‘experience’.

Our autumn reconnaissance began with a deeply comforting, savoury chawanmushi (made with 24-month aged Parmesan) partnered by onion consommé, though a rudimentary snack of Brin d’Amour and tomatoes on crusty focaccia was little more than a decent bite of cheese on toast. Agnolotti stuffed with Yorkshire ricotta and Amalfi lemon in a whey sauce tasted admirably of the Sorrentine Peninsula but a dish of Irish langoustine with cubes of Yorkshire chorizo, pepper purée and Australian finger lime on Spanish black rice was overly rich and thick. To conclude, the local larder shone through with a mini île flottante of raw milk ice cream, aromatic Ilkley Moor heather honey, bee pollen and clarified milk tea (poured tableside).

Wine pairings are dutifully overseen by the sommelier, although a truncated by-the-glass selection doesn’t do justice to the kitchen’s ambitions. Cocktails, however, are expertly mixed and a fitting way to kick off the occasion.

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VENUE DETAILS

35-37 Church Street
Ilkley
West Yorkshire
LS29 9DRGB

01943 608484

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Deposit required

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