The Black Bear Inn
Bettws Newydd, Monmouthshire
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Against the dramatic backdrop of the Black Mountains, Bettws Newydd is an idyllic rural community with this ‘very unassuming' country pub at its heart. Seating just 36 indoors, with a small terrace at the back, it is run without pretence or formality and has a delightfully homely vibe. You’re likely to meet chef Josh Byrne, who frequently comes out of the kitchen to chat with the diners, while Hannah Byrne looks after front of house. The brief, weekly changing carte adds a Mediterranean sheen to carefully sourced seasonal ingredients, opening with a generous selection of snacks – perhaps cod's roe, pickled sardines or the ever-present Welsh rarebit. A recent lunch opened with a ‘fabulous’ cod brandade topped with sweet roasted cherry tomatoes, fennel and crunchy, salty sea purslane, ahead of pollock, accompanied by clams, sherry and garlic, all set on a smooth, creamy cauliflower purée. Elsewhere, lamb with carrots, salsa verde and mash has been praised. To finish, there are British cheeses, custard tart or a summer berry pavlova. Reasonable prices extend to the Eurocentric wine list.
