The Angel
Abergavenny, Monmouthshire
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Set in the green pastures of the bucolic Monmouthshire hills, Abergavenny is famous for its annual Food Festival but draws in foodies year-round thanks to the nearby Walnut Tree, which continues to hold pilgrimage status hereabouts. Owned by the same family-run team, this former coaching inn in the town centre is an elegant proposition. Behind the Georgian façade is a stylish hotel offering a plethora of eating spaces, from the modern, expansive Oak Room restaurant to the Foxhunter Bar, a pretty courtyard for fair-weather socialising and the Wedgewood Room (noted for its high teas). Intent on pleasing everyone (including children), the lunch and dinner menus run the whole gamut of comfort food, from burgers, pies and sandwiches to grander fare such as lobster thermidor, generous seafood platters and dry-aged Welsh beef – although veggie offerngs are thin on the ground. Best value is the fixed-price Angel menu, which has yielded some impressive dishes ranging from an 'impeccable' octopus carpaccio with jalapeño and squid-ink dressing to perfectly cooked rack of lamb with a light but deeply flavoured summer bean broth. After that, lemon meringue trifle, sticky toffee pudding and a 'Café Gourmand’ selection of perfectly pleasant (if slightly old-fashioned) mini-desserts bring things to a fittingly indulgent close. The open fires in the winter are a big hit, as are the ‘friendly and attentive' staff. The choice of wines on the menu plays it safe – ask for the full list if you want a more wide-ranging, thoughtful selection (including some Welsh sparklers). Otherwise, dip into the extensive choice of cocktails.
