The Anchor
Ripley, Surrey
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The redbrick pub has its deepest roots in the 16th century, as its unevenly beamed façade and whitewashed gable end indicate. When Ripley is rippling with summer heat, a lunch in the sheltered courtyard is a delight, but the pub's interior rooms exert plenty of airy contemporary appeal too. Fire up the appetite with a little puffed pork skin or a smoked salmon tartlet before you set about the menu. There is a deal of imaginative energy going on in Michael Wall-Palmer's multi-faceted dishes, amid gentle layers of richness, as in a starter of smoked haddock thermidor with a soft-boiled egg, tomato and spinach. A main dish of roast lamb rump with hispi and a cassoulet of beans and morteau sausage is fortifying enough, even more so with a side of hash browns and chipotle mayo. Tonka panna cotta with ginger meringues, rhubarb and honeycomb makes a fitting finale. Wines are a well-selected global jumble, from £27.