Temaki
Brixton, London
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Part of Brixton’s buzzy Market Row scene, Temaki has garnered something of a cult following since launching in 2021. As the name suggests, hand-rolled, hand-delivered maki rolls are the kitchen’s forte, and the action takes place in a clean, minimalist space with polished concrete walls and contemporary lighting. Everyone sits at a long pale-wood counter, manned by warm, friendly staff who have a tendency to ‘hover’. The food may not be authentic old-school Japanese, but the kitchen understands the intricate techniques and subtle touches involved – especially when it comes to preparing the ‘generally excellent’ sushi rice. For best value and quality, readers recommend the set menu rather than the more ambitious (and more costly) carte and specials list. Recent samplings have included an ‘exceptionally flavourful’ and well-balanced BBQ eel roll (the soft, delicate flesh enveloped by a light, sweet BBQ sauce), but 'top pick' goes to the house signature riff, a mix of sweet, fatty otoro and leaner akami tuna, crowned with an exceptionally generous portion of tobiko (flying fish roe). The menu also offers delicate, well-prepared sashimi dressed in a light ponzu-esque sauce, although other small/sharing plates can be hit and miss. Sake is the standout on the drinks list.
