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Tawny Stores

Greater Manchester, Marple - European - Café & deli - ££

Lively little café and deli with an imaginative menu

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

More than a café, less than a restaurant, this growing genre is hard to capture in a single word, hence the proliferation of terms such as ‘kitchen’, ‘eatery’ or, in this case, ‘stores’. It's a good fit for Beth Hammond's latest venture, after her much-praised stints at Altrincham Market, Yellowhammer and Flawd wine bar. The location on the suburban edge of the Peak District is unexpectedly delightful: on one side of the leaf-green shopfront is the Macclesfield Canal and charming waterside garden; on the other, the looming hulk of the old Cottonopolis Goyt Mill. Inside, the style is simple and quirky, with two small dining spaces, an open kitchen, a counter of enticing home-bakes and a bevy of friendly, easy-going staff. An expertly curated selection of deli items fills every nook and cranny. You can drop by for coffee and cake or a (highly recommended) focaccia sandwich, although lunchtimes can be a squeeze. The regular ‘foo...

More than a café, less than a restaurant, this growing genre is hard to capture in a single word, hence the proliferation of terms such as ‘kitchen’, ‘eatery’ or, in this case, ‘stores’. It's a good fit for Beth Hammond's latest venture, after her much-praised stints at Altrincham Market, Yellowhammer and Flawd wine bar.

The location on the suburban edge of the Peak District is unexpectedly delightful: on one side of the leaf-green shopfront is the Macclesfield Canal and charming waterside garden; on the other, the looming hulk of the old Cottonopolis Goyt Mill. Inside, the style is simple and quirky, with two small dining spaces, an open kitchen, a counter of enticing home-bakes and a bevy of friendly, easy-going staff. An expertly curated selection of deli items fills every nook and cranny.

You can drop by for coffee and cake or a (highly recommended) focaccia sandwich, although lunchtimes can be a squeeze. The regular ‘food’ menu immediately appeals with vibrant dishes that show off their seasonality and provenance without sounding prissy or self-conscious. Most are ‘green’ but not exclusively so. Standouts on our visit were the crispy courgette, sweetcorn and ricotta salata fritters with creamy tzatziki and a subtle dash of fermented chili oil, as well as the roast Flourish Farm aubergine topped with elegantly spiced lamb ragù and herbs. The overall impression was one of careful, self-confident and enthusiastic simplicity. The kitchen clearly knows what it's doing. 

There are no desserts, but delicate little custard tarts should fill any gaps. A short selection of natural wines, organic soft drinks and excellent, ethically sourced coffee completes the picture. Prices are higher than your average ‘caff’ but still remarkably good value for the quality on offer, plus that hard-to-define X-factor: returnability.

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VENUE DETAILS

1 Upper Hibbert Lane, Hawk Green
Marple
Greater Manchester
SK6 7JQGB

OTHER INFORMATION

Family friendly, Dog friendly

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