Stretford Canteen
Manchester, Greater Manchester
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Stretford is famously associated with the Stretford End at Old Trafford, Manchester United's home ground. After several years as a mobile pop-up, the Stretford Canteen might not bring this hitherto neglected area the same degree of worldwide recognition but it is certainly at the forefront of giving it a shot in the arm. The investment that has gone into upgrading the Stretford Mall (formerly Arndale) has paid off, but unfortunately, the restaurant's location on a heavy-duty arterial dual carriageway is the opposite of picturesque. The frontage is muted and decor is on the lower end of the budget spectrum – there’s just enough room for a few tables, a high counter overlooking the kitchen... and that’s about it. But it’s easy-going, with tables close enough to encourage cheerful chit-chat. The genre is charming French bistro, unsurprising when we learn that the owner's family background dates back to the much-missed old Beaujolais restaurant in central Manchester. Price is the main indication of plate size, but most are generously portioned, so having just one or two small plates is no problem. It’s largely a welcome return to evergreen favourites such as celeriac rémoulade, grilled king prawns with lemon and aïoli, melting short ribs with astringent parsley salad, pommes dauphinoise. Although some of the dishes tried at inspection were a tad disappointing, others such as salt-baked beetroot with orange, hazelnuts and goat's cheese, and a chocolate mousse with crème fraîche scored well. And, to drink, a fruit-filled, spicy Côtes du Rhône Villages was well-advised. It may not qualify as a destination restaurant but, as far as good neighbourhood eateries go, this one hits the back of the net.
