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Stow

Greater Manchester, Manchester - Modern European - Restaurant & Bar - ££

Heat, smoke and open-fire cooking in the city

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

It may be fronted by a cocktail bar but there is nothing fancy about this cramped, barebones space. However, you really won’t care as all eyes are on the kitchen – Stow is all about open-fire cooking, delivered in a rush of heat and flames. We recommend booking a seat at the chef’s table if it's offered, the better to immerse yourself in the whole spectacle of big cuts of meat and fish being licked by fire. The short, regularly changing menu covers a lot of ground. Sharing plates of ‘overnight-coal’ beets with ricotta and smoked honey (a dish full of compelling, smoky flavours) or celeriac pappardelle dotted with black garlic in a punchy, golden anchovy sauce benefit from some soft, fluffy milk bread with burnt-onion butter to mop up the juices. After that, a whole monkfish tail perfectly timed and served in a delicious trout roe and dill beurre blanc should suffice; alternatively, opt for an ex-dairy ribeye and team with garlicky ratte potatoes liberally...

It may be fronted by a cocktail bar but there is nothing fancy about this cramped, barebones space. However, you really won’t care as all eyes are on the kitchen – Stow is all about open-fire cooking, delivered in a rush of heat and flames. We recommend booking a seat at the chef’s table if it's offered, the better to immerse yourself in the whole spectacle of big cuts of meat and fish being licked by fire.

The short, regularly changing menu covers a lot of ground. Sharing plates of ‘overnight-coal’ beets with ricotta and smoked honey (a dish full of compelling, smoky flavours) or celeriac pappardelle dotted with black garlic in a punchy, golden anchovy sauce benefit from some soft, fluffy milk bread with burnt-onion butter to mop up the juices. After that, a whole monkfish tail perfectly timed and served in a delicious trout roe and dill beurre blanc should suffice; alternatively, opt for an ex-dairy ribeye and team with garlicky ratte potatoes liberally showered with finely grated Corra Linn cheese.

If you’re sweet of tooth, the smoked cream tart with forced rhubarb is a must. Don’t flinch when it arrives with its top blackened to a crisp – it's an unusual flavour combination reminiscent of cinder toffee and dulce de leche. Otherwise, play it safe with a white chocolate crémeux and pistachio. Service is friendly and engaged. To drink, there are excellent cocktails and beers on draught, or you can settle for a bottle from the all-French wine list.

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VENUE DETAILS

62 Bridge Street
Manchester
Greater Manchester
M3 3BWGB

07903 067674

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Credit card required

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