Star & Garter
Falmouth, Cornwall
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Smartly updated as a pub/restaurant with three boutique apartments upstairs, this born-again Victorian pub (circa 1892) is reaping the benefits of a modest makeover – although the views of Falmouth harbour from its dining area are as entrancing as ever. The chef is keen on Cornish ingredients, and fish from the local boats is a strong suit – perhaps BBQ monkfish partnered by chicken butter, smoked potatoes and mussels. The kitchen also has its own butchery and a ‘waste nothing’ philosophy that yields some intriguing results on the plate, from shepherd’s pie nuggets with the pub’s own brown sauce to smoked beef-cheek dumplings with smashed peas and pickled onion rings. Not surprisingly, top-notch Sunday roasts are a given here, and readers are full of praise for the ‘perfectly cooked’ rump of aged beef with all the trimmings (including ‘Yorkies as big as your head’). For afters, don’t miss the blackberry cheesecake mess or the ‘divine’ sticky toffee pudding with a ‘burnt’ banana, Pedro Ximénez caramel and clotted cream. Service is ‘attentive but not overbearing’, while the drinks list features some well-annotated global wines alongside expertly crafted cocktails and local ales.
