St James
Bushey, Hertfordshire
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Ebullient host Alfonso La Cava is still the life and soul at this highly dependable, long-running local asset within sight of St James church. Expect ‘consistently competent’, gently innovative Anglo-European cooking at ridiculously fair prices (goat’s cheese and beetroot cannoli followed by sea bass with turnip tops and ratatouille or veal T-bone with celeriac purée, apple and pearl barley risotto). To finish, regulars can’t get enough of the retro Toblerone cheesecake with cherries. The venue’s ever-evolving roster of local inducements also runs to Italian brunch, afternoon tea, Sunday roasts, vegan deals and a no-nonsense drinks list.
