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Sorrel

Surrey, Dorking - Modern British - Restaurant - ££££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Steve Drake is a local legend in Surrey, having spent 14 years at Drakes in Ripley before decamping to Dorking in 2017. Since then, Sorrel has become a real asset to the town and continues to go ‘from strength to strength’. Occupying a series of smartly turned out, low-ceilinged rooms in a Grade II-listed building complete with beams and standing timbers, it’s a thoroughly agreeable spot. Proceedings revolve around a multi-course ‘Discovery’ menu that runs effortlessly from ‘departures’ (exquisite mouthfuls such as apple and curry meringue) to ‘journey’s end’ (jasmine and lemon bonbon, miso fudge etc). In between, the cooking is of the moment, subtle but also razor-sharp when it comes to teasing out flavours from the finest seasonal ingredients. Pork belly might be paired with mussels, raw broccoli and piquillo pepper, while guinea fowl could be given the ‘coq au vin’ treatment, with parsley root and chocolate addi...

Steve Drake is a local legend in Surrey, having spent 14 years at Drakes in Ripley before decamping to Dorking in 2017. Since then, Sorrel has become a real asset to the town and continues to go ‘from strength to strength’. Occupying a series of smartly turned out, low-ceilinged rooms in a Grade II-listed building complete with beams and standing timbers, it’s a thoroughly agreeable spot. Proceedings revolve around a multi-course ‘Discovery’ menu that runs effortlessly from ‘departures’ (exquisite mouthfuls such as apple and curry meringue) to ‘journey’s end’ (jasmine and lemon bonbon, miso fudge etc). In between, the cooking is of the moment, subtle but also razor-sharp when it comes to teasing out flavours from the finest seasonal ingredients. Pork belly might be paired with mussels, raw broccoli and piquillo pepper, while guinea fowl could be given the ‘coq au vin’ treatment, with parsley root and chocolate adding their own unexpected notes to a reinvented classic. Hand-dived scallops feature regularly (perhaps with crushed apple, turnip miso, Ortiz anchovy and turnip leaf oil), while dessert often heralds a voguish sweet-savoury confection (grapefruit, shiitake, coffee, peanut and passion fruit, for example). A more manageable three-course option (also framed by 'departure' and 'journey's end' nibbles) suits the lunchtime crowd. The whole package is enhanced by efficient, considerate staff who explain everything in knowing detail and serve dishes at ‘just the right speed’, allowing diners time to take it all in. A constantly evolving, contemporary wine list aims to match the flavours of the season, with quality and value across the board, and plenty of accessible by-the-glass options for easy drinking.

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VENUE DETAILS

77 South Street
Dorking
Surrey
RH4 2JUGB

01306 889414

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required

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