Slice
Swansea, Glamorgan
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Adam Bannister and Chris Harris have hit on a winning formula at their singular venue in Swansea's Sketty district. It's a compact first-floor dining room kitted out with foursquare wood furniture and plain walls, but not lacking in a due sense of conviviality. A monthly-changing tasting menu is offered, but there is plenty going on in the standard three-course format too. You can't spell Glamorgan without 'Glam', which probably explains the aromatic waft of truffle in a veggie opener of textured cauliflower and goat's cheese. Opting for a seafaring way in might suggest poached cod in a sauce of potted shrimps with braised celery, ahead of one of the tripartite meat main courses – rack, shank and neck of lamb with salsa verde, or loin, shoulder and faggot of Middle White pork with savoy cabbage, celeriac terrine and apple purée. Each dish is marked with a suggested wine pairing to absolve you of the effort of choosing, all the way to a finishing line that could be Australian pink moscato with poached rhubarb and egg custard, or a delightful aged tawny port with chocolate soufflé and peanut-brittle ice cream. Wines on the main list start at around £20 for Sauvignon and Merlot varietals from the Aude Valley in France.
