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Simpsons

West Midlands, Birmingham - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Classic cooking in a tranquil setting

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

There was a time, though it seems scarcely credible now, when England's second city was rather bereft of ambitious, upscale dining. That such an era is firmly in the rapidly receding past is due in no small measure to the influence of Simpsons, which reached its 30th year in 2024, no less. It remains the model of an oasis in the city, a Georgian mansion with a dining room and a series of private spaces that anticipated the vogue for eco-decor by a generation. Unfaced stone, unclothed wooden tables and picture-window views on to the garden and gazebo make a counter-intuitively rustic impression, one that the faintly over-dressed staff belie. Luke Tipping continues to run an industrious and highly qualified kitchen brigade, an impression encapsulated by the serving of two breads with wild garlic butter and taramasalata. Among the highlights on a set menu at inspection was Newlyn plaice with Jersey Royals, asparagus, monk's beard and basil in citrus beurre blanc – the fish lightly ...

There was a time, though it seems scarcely credible now, when England's second city was rather bereft of ambitious, upscale dining. That such an era is firmly in the rapidly receding past is due in no small measure to the influence of Simpsons, which reached its 30th year in 2024, no less. It remains the model of an oasis in the city, a Georgian mansion with a dining room and a series of private spaces that anticipated the vogue for eco-decor by a generation. Unfaced stone, unclothed wooden tables and picture-window views on to the garden and gazebo make a counter-intuitively rustic impression, one that the faintly over-dressed staff belie.

Luke Tipping continues to run an industrious and highly qualified kitchen brigade, an impression encapsulated by the serving of two breads with wild garlic butter and taramasalata. Among the highlights on a set menu at inspection was Newlyn plaice with Jersey Royals, asparagus, monk's beard and basil in citrus beurre blanc – the fish lightly floured and fried to a golden crust with a just-cooked interior, the grapefruit-tinged sauce given welcome body with chia seeds.

Elsewhere, a generous pavé of sirloin with roast, pickled and puréed carrots, plus softly buttery maitake mushrooms and a classical red wine sauce proved that textbook ideas can be achieved with genuine flair. Where dishes fall short of these heights, however, they can seem muddled in conception: an arrangement of beetroot variations, for example, lacked a unifying element and was dominated by copious buttermilk sauce and dill oil.

To finish, a dessert of poached Evesham rhubarb with a matching sorbet arrived with a fetching green woodruff custard and a scattering of roasted marzipan. A group of enterprising wines by the glass, including Greek, Uruguayan and Alto Adige selections, heralds a quality list that gets into its stride in the classic French regions.

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VENUE DETAILS

20 Highfield Road, Edgbaston
Birmingham
West Midlands
B15 3DUGB

0121 454 3434

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required

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