Russell's of Broadway
Broadway, Worcestershire
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The titular Russell was Sir George, one of the premier British furniture designers of the Arts and Crafts movement, who opened a workshop in Broadway in the 1920s. A Georgian house of Cotswold stone, with guest rooms too, it makes an alluring retreat – as well as a prime Sunday lunch destination for out-of-towners. There are some novel ideas on the main carte, which might open the bidding with blue-cheese panna cotta, shaved celery, glazed figs and granola – all cream and crunch – or perhaps a pairing of scallops and devils on horseback alongside a purée of caramelised cauliflower. Main courses luxuriate in the likes of truffled chicken breast and smoked mash, or a properly aged Scotch beef fillet with roasted Roscoff onion, but those in search of more shock-of-the-new combinations might look to char siu monkfish with banana ketchup, roasted sweetcorn and pineapple-chilli salsa. Finish with a Paris-Brest and chocolate ice. Those among the Sunday lunch crowd who are not into roasted loins and sirloins might contemplate stone bass with Parmesan gnocchi. A useful selection of wines at uniform prices, in two glass sizes, takes in Sicilian Catarratto and Romanian Pinot Noir.
