Restaurant Örme
Urmston, Greater Manchester
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It's only 10 minutes from the mayhem of the Trafford Centre, but this little eatery could be from another world. Sitting at the end of a homely parade of shops in leafy, residential Urmston, it's run by two young locals who have given the open-plan interior a neat, clean Scandi-aesthetic. Dark blue and blonde hues set the mood, while wood, stone, ceramics and clean lines add a natural and neutral vibe. There is no carte, just a couple of monthly changing tasting menus (with a few additional supplements), plus the opportunity to order matching wine (the 'British drinks pairing' is slightly more expensive but well worth it). The spirit of the place is youthful and breezily energetic, the cooking lively but serious, with bold, rich flavours. A small tranche of barbecued North Sea mackerel with lightly roasted summer tomatoes and tarragon was rich and delicate with a clear, aromatic aniseed broth. The matching glass of Stopham Estate Pinot Blanc from Sussex was well advised. Lightly smoked chunks of caramelised turnip were served with fine slices of apple and a luscious blue-cheese custard (brave, interesting and exciting) while deeply flavoured Cumbrian lamb with an intense, mahogany sauce (just the right side of treacly) was set off by a scoop of intense lovage purée, a small roll of stuffed hispi cabbage, two gorgeous lamb-belly pasties and a deep-fried kale leaf that looked like a botanical drawing. A set menu has its advantages but needs to be carefully constructed – there were just too many creamy, cheesy elements impacting individual dishes when we visited. Hopefully, time will temper the owners' understandable ebullience. One to watch.
