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Restaurant Örme

Greater Manchester, Urmston - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

It's only 10 minutes from the mayhem of the Trafford Centre, but this little eatery could be from another world. Sitting at the end of a homely parade of shops in leafy, residential Urmston, it's run by two young locals who have given the open-plan interior a neat, clean Scandi-aesthetic. Dark blue and blonde hues set the mood, while wood, stone, ceramics and clean lines add a natural and neutral vibe. There is no carte, just a couple of monthly changing tasting menus (with a few additional supplements), plus the opportunity to order matching wine (the 'British drinks pairing' is slightly more expensive but well worth it). The spirit of the place is youthful and breezily energetic, the cooking lively but serious, with bold, rich flavours. A small tranche of barbecued North Sea mackerel with lightly roasted summer tomatoes and tarragon was rich and delicate with a clear, aromatic aniseed broth. The matching glass of Stopham Estate Pinot Blanc from Sussex was well advised. Lightly smoked...

It's only 10 minutes from the mayhem of the Trafford Centre, but this little eatery could be from another world. Sitting at the end of a homely parade of shops in leafy, residential Urmston, it's run by two young locals who have given the open-plan interior a neat, clean Scandi-aesthetic. Dark blue and blonde hues set the mood, while wood, stone, ceramics and clean lines add a natural and neutral vibe. There is no carte, just a couple of monthly changing tasting menus (with a few additional supplements), plus the opportunity to order matching wine (the 'British drinks pairing' is slightly more expensive but well worth it). The spirit of the place is youthful and breezily energetic, the cooking lively but serious, with bold, rich flavours. A small tranche of barbecued North Sea mackerel with lightly roasted summer tomatoes and tarragon was rich and delicate with a clear, aromatic aniseed broth. The matching glass of Stopham Estate Pinot Blanc from Sussex was well advised. Lightly smoked chunks of caramelised turnip were served with fine slices of apple and a luscious blue-cheese custard (brave, interesting and exciting) while deeply flavoured Cumbrian lamb with an intense, mahogany sauce (just the right side of treacly) was set off by a scoop of intense lovage purée, a small roll of stuffed hispi cabbage, two gorgeous lamb-belly pasties and a deep-fried kale leaf that looked like a botanical drawing. A set menu has its advantages but needs to be carefully constructed – there were just too many creamy, cheesy elements impacting individual dishes when we visited. Hopefully, time will temper the owners' understandable ebullience. One to watch.

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VENUE DETAILS

218 Church Road
Urmston
Greater Manchester
M41 9DXGB

0161 264 0072

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Credit card required

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