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Restaurant Jericho

Leicestershire, Plungar - Modern British - Restaurant - ££££

Serious cooking and serious dedication with the personal touch

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Farm restaurants are all the rage, and here – on a smallholding deep in the Vale of Belvoir between Grantham and Nottingham – is Jericho. Richard and Grace Stevens opened for business in 2022, having kitted out the place with salvage from the farm buildings, a Japanese-style moss wall and displays of agricultural implements. The dining room presents an expansive, welcoming space in contrasting dark and light tones, with plentiful daylight through numerous windows. There is a kitchen bench for ringside views of the culinary action, and a couple of tepees outside for overnight accommodation. A measure of the hosts' serious dedication to the cause is the fact that the standard menu is a 20-course taster that will typically take the better part of four hours. That said, the first few meaty mouthfuls arrive at the double: a mutton croquette cooked over coals and served with quince paste; blackberry-glazed pork belly skewer, its fat beautifully rendered; partridge leg in a pear ...

Farm restaurants are all the rage, and here – on a smallholding deep in the Vale of Belvoir between Grantham and Nottingham – is Jericho. Richard and Grace Stevens opened for business in 2022, having kitted out the place with salvage from the farm buildings, a Japanese-style moss wall and displays of agricultural implements. The dining room presents an expansive, welcoming space in contrasting dark and light tones, with plentiful daylight through numerous windows. There is a kitchen bench for ringside views of the culinary action, and a couple of tepees outside for overnight accommodation.

A measure of the hosts' serious dedication to the cause is the fact that the standard menu is a 20-course taster that will typically take the better part of four hours. That said, the first few meaty mouthfuls arrive at the double: a mutton croquette cooked over coals and served with quince paste; blackberry-glazed pork belly skewer, its fat beautifully rendered; partridge leg in a pear coating. The balance of flavours in succeeding dishes is never short on ingenuity. A hit of elderflower sharpens white beetroot soup, while wild mushroom ‘chawanmushi’ is full of earthy tones, with some pickled mushrooms and a dash of dashi to electrify it.

When the meat dishes return, they come in style: lamb with turnips, in a dressing of lamb fat and walnut oil; mixed-pedigree sirloin with an artful swirl of Jerusalem artichoke foam and black garlic purée. Sometimes the balance skews – the Granny Smith apple and sloe jam accompaniments were just a little too astringent and bitter for the mallard they chaperoned. A pre-dessert of ‘whole crop silage’ ice cream tasted hauntingly of the farmyard (file under ‘acquired taste’), but the following sweet things were treats indeed – from parsnip custard topped with honeycomb to smoky Bramley apple cooked in Marmite butter and served with a clod of clotted cream.

The personal touch extends to a non-stop playlist, set at a level that just manages to drown out the descriptions of the more softly spoken servers. The wine list is crammed with biodynamic and low-intervention gear, but most will sensibly opt for the drinks pairings, which might take in the heterodox likes of Pét-Nat, Chilean Chardonnay, Hungarian rosé and Muscat de Rivesaltes.

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P Holmes

21 May 2024

All produce is locally sourced or grown onsite. What a fantastic way to boost the local economy and deliver only the freshest and finest food. The service from the moment you walk in is exceptional, everything has been considered to make this a fully immersive experience. I love watching Rich and the team create their magic.

A Mcpetrie

13 May 2024

Great local produce, sourcing amazing local meats and game. Family run with great service that makes you feel at home. Experimental ingredients and dishes, and great value.

VENUE DETAILS

Orchard Farm, Barkestone Lane
Plungar
Leicestershire
NG13 0JA GB

01949 728288

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required, Deposit required, Pre-payment required

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