Read's

Faversham, Kent

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David and Rona Pitchford have served Kent well over the years, and continue to run Read's with unwavering commitment – plying their trade against the very civilised backdrop of a smartly attired Georgian manor house. Chefs come and go, but David Pitchford remains resolutely at the helm – if not shaking pans, then supervising the kitchen, planning menus and ensuring his impeccable supply links are up to scratch. Locally sourced ingredients mean a great deal here, and the kitchen also makes admirable use of produce from the walled gardens of the manor. Dish descriptions come embellished with all manner of humorous quotes – a starter of confit chicken terrine with prune purée and toasted sourdough, for example, bears the citation ‘never eat more than you can lift’, attributed to Miss Piggy. Among the classically inclined, Euro-accented main courses, a ‘superb and beautifully cooked’ Dijon-crusted loin of Kentish lamb was the high point for one visitor, although you might also find Scottish beef sirloin (cooked medium-rare as standard) with Cabernet Sauvignon sauce or sea bass fillet paired with confit potato, prawns, spinach, samphire and red pepper sauce. To finish, there’s generally a hot fruity soufflé with ice cream, alongside Read’s deep lemon tart and the likes of milk chocolate délice with local cherries and cherry sorbet. Front-of-house manager Brad Gent is very hands-on, and readers continue to praise the polite, attentive staff – as well as the kitchen’s flexibility (happily providing gluten-free options for one grateful guest). The connoisseur’s wine list is an in-depth exploration of the world’s producers, but look to the ‘best buys’ for value and quality from £28.