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Porth Tocyn

Gwynedd, Abersoch - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Redoubtable family-run hotel

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

‘Quality, service, location… it has it all,’ exclaimed a devotee of Porth Tocyn – an enduring family affair and an easy-to-like Guide stalwart for more than six decades. The next generation, Henry Fletcher-Brewer and wife Kelly, understand hospitality as acutely as the rest of the clan, and are gradually chucking out the chintz as this much-loved hotel takes on a more tasteful contemporary look. Drinks are served amid gleaming dark wood and fresh soft furnishings, with stormy landscapes telling of rough seas; the dining room is simple and expansive, looking over well-established coastal gardens. At lunchtime, a country house spirit pervades the menu – think moules marinière, steak sandwiches and grilled fish, plus a beautifully presented roast on Sundays. The seasonally attuned dinner menu has also earned plaudits from readers: ‘impressively large’ pan-seared scallops with chorizo, cauliflower purée, roe fritter and a herby pass...

‘Quality, service, location… it has it all,’ exclaimed a devotee of Porth Tocyn – an enduring family affair and an easy-to-like Guide stalwart for more than six decades. The next generation, Henry Fletcher-Brewer and wife Kelly, understand hospitality as acutely as the rest of the clan, and are gradually chucking out the chintz as this much-loved hotel takes on a more tasteful contemporary look. Drinks are served amid gleaming dark wood and fresh soft furnishings, with stormy landscapes telling of rough seas; the dining room is simple and expansive, looking over well-established coastal gardens.

At lunchtime, a country house spirit pervades the menu – think moules marinière, steak sandwiches and grilled fish, plus a beautifully presented roast on Sundays. The seasonally attuned dinner menu has also earned plaudits from readers: ‘impressively large’ pan-seared scallops with chorizo, cauliflower purée, roe fritter and a herby passion-fruit dressing might give way to moist and tender venison loin, guinea fowl presented two ways or rack of Welsh lamb with a mini shepherd’s pie, creamed leeks, roast carrot and mint jus.

Palate-cleansing sorbets do their job, while desserts could range from Eton mess or rhubarb crumble with cream to an unusual tonka-bean posset. The kitchen works hard to please (the souvenirs on sale are jars of homemade marmalade), and eminently courteous staff are always affable and eager to help. A very respectable wine list keeps its mark-ups in check.  

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VENUE DETAILS

Bwlchtocyn
Abersoch
Gwynedd
LL53 7BUGB

01758 713303

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, No background music, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly

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