Pinion
Prescot, Merseyside
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Another of Gary Usher's crowdfunded venues has found a home in Prescot, not far from Liverpool, and it stays true to the group's founding mission – namely, to bring 'humble bistro food' to any number of previously unfashionable quarters. We like the 'humble': it's the instinct that leads you to zhuzh up the chips with truffle oil and Parmesan, a touch now replicated the length and breadth of the kingdom. They make a classy accompaniment to sticky-braised beef with beetroot ketchup, but they're also a side, so have them with whatever you damn well want. That said, the fries that come with harissa-spiced chicken are done up in rosemary and chilli, with roasted garlic mayo for good measure. Before that, you might well have set about a gathering of caramelised goat's cheese, roasted carrots in smoked garlic honey and puffed rice, while the lures at the finishing line are mainly about brûlée, praline, butterscotch, and – of course – salt. The house drinks list comprises cocktails (with or without alcohol), premium beers, and wines in two glass sizes.
