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Pearly Queen

London, Spitalfields - Seafood - Restaurant - £££

Spot-on seafood cookery in Spitalfields

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Following the closure of Cornerstone in Hackney Wick, chef-proprietor Tom Brown is now focusing his energy on this more accessible Spitalfields sibling. With Scandi-style minimalism and some counter seating, the small space may not be as comfortable as the his previous restaurant but it feels every inch the contemporary venue, divided between two floors with the kitchen open to view in the basement. The brief menu kicks off with a handful of nibbles and oysters in various guises – perhaps raw with a hint of Scotch bonnet and a dash of lime, or a creamy pickled version with horseradish and celery. From a selection of small plates, we sampled cured gurnard in a silky, zesty pool of almond and blood orange, as well as an unusual umami-laden crab and Parmesan 'risotto' fritter. Shared centrepiece plates also delivered vivid flavours and on-point cooking – from a casserole of hearty cuttlefish lasagne with a decent blob of basil mayonnaise on the side to a meaty monkfish t...

Following the closure of Cornerstone in Hackney Wick, chef-proprietor Tom Brown is now focusing his energy on this more accessible Spitalfields sibling. With Scandi-style minimalism and some counter seating, the small space may not be as comfortable as the his previous restaurant but it feels every inch the contemporary venue, divided between two floors with the kitchen open to view in the basement.

The brief menu kicks off with a handful of nibbles and oysters in various guises – perhaps raw with a hint of Scotch bonnet and a dash of lime, or a creamy pickled version with horseradish and celery. From a selection of small plates, we sampled cured gurnard in a silky, zesty pool of almond and blood orange, as well as an unusual umami-laden crab and Parmesan 'risotto' fritter. Shared centrepiece plates also delivered vivid flavours and on-point cooking – from a casserole of hearty cuttlefish lasagne with a decent blob of basil mayonnaise on the side to a meaty monkfish tail (on the bone), served with a delicious roast-chicken butter sauce. Overall, we loved Brown's simple, confident approach to top-quality seafood.

As a finale, try the ingenious sticky toffee madeleines with golden raisins and ginger cake or the signature PQ trifle with strawberries and vanilla custard. The whole place is run with great enthusiasm, while drinks encompass excellent cocktails, some natural wines, and a good choice of styles and grapes from across Europe and beyond – though prices climb quickly from their £37 entry point.

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VENUE DETAILS

44 Commercial Street
Spitalfields
E1 6LTGB

020 8161 0399

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating

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