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Paulette

London, Maida Vale - French - Restaurant - ££

Quirky old-fashioned bistro with bags of natural charm

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

On a side street close to Warwick Avenue tube, this delightfully eccentric bistro has all the trappings of a quirky dining room belonging to a rich, dotty aunt who has travelled the world and is partial to a midday tipple. Inside, it's a mishmash of closely packed wooden tables and chairs (some covered in gingham tablecloths), antique lampshades, eye-catching floral patterned wallpaper, shelves of wine and a service bar decked out like a country-house kitchen. There’s a natural charm to the place and we'd venture there’s nowhere else quite like it in London. That natural charm extends to the attentive staff who will greet you like a long-lost friend, even if it’s your first visit – although we got the impression that many guests in the packed, buzzy room were regulars. You may find it hard to resist their offer of some reasonably priced fizz to fill the stylish etched Champagne coupe that’s ready and waiting for you at your table. The resolutely French ...

On a side street close to Warwick Avenue tube, this delightfully eccentric bistro has all the trappings of a quirky dining room belonging to a rich, dotty aunt who has travelled the world and is partial to a midday tipple. Inside, it's a mishmash of closely packed wooden tables and chairs (some covered in gingham tablecloths), antique lampshades, eye-catching floral patterned wallpaper, shelves of wine and a service bar decked out like a country-house kitchen.

There’s a natural charm to the place and we'd venture there’s nowhere else quite like it in London. That natural charm extends to the attentive staff who will greet you like a long-lost friend, even if it’s your first visit – although we got the impression that many guests in the packed, buzzy room were regulars. You may find it hard to resist their offer of some reasonably priced fizz to fill the stylish etched Champagne coupe that’s ready and waiting for you at your table. The resolutely French menu is executed with obvious care and skill. Our chicken liver parfait (silky and delicious) was classically made and served with a beautifully composed salad generously dressed with a good old-fashioned mustard vinaigrette to cut through the richness.

From the recited list of specials, we plumped for a large T-bone of well-seasoned tender pork, which came with nicely rendered, crisp fat and a textbook mustard cream sauce that had an excellent depth of flavour. Even the skin-on fries impressed, served crisp, hot and salty with a terrific potatoey flavour. Portions are generous, and we couldn’t manage desserts – although the chocolate soufflé tart looked well worth saving room for.

They take their wine seriously here, with vintage Burgundies and Bordeaux at not-too-silly prices, plus Coravin selections and monthly in-house tastings. There's plenty of choice below £50 too, which helps to make Paulette a nigh-on perfect neighbourhood gem.

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VENUE DETAILS

18 Formosa Street
Maida Vale
W9 1EEGB

020 7286 2715

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Family friendly

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