Ophelia
South Gosforth, Tyne & Wear
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'A first-rate French bistro,' is, according to Ophelia's fans, 'exactly what Gosforth needed.' It's been delivered by the extremely capable team behind Jesmond's Patricia, with chef Nick Grieves at the helm. Inside, the classy navy-blue and terracotta fit-out (with lots of poster art) feels like a commitment to the space, while the menu represents a commitment to good eating. From snacks of crispy chicken skin with rouille through to superlative desserts, this is 'really high-quality cooking that's refined but comforting', backed by a 'well-chosen' French-led wine list and warm, assured service. To start, a tomato and roast garlic sourdough tartine packs a mustardy punch, with aged Parmesan emulsion to sop up with the bread. On Thursdays, the 'poulet frites' menu rules, with the open kitchen turning out beautifully roasted chickens with loads of chips and two fine sauces: béarnaise because of France, and gravy because of Newcastle. A lighter plateful might be bang-on Cornish pollack with fudgy ratte potatoes and tarragon beurre blanc. Puddings are the business, especially a densely alluring mousse au chocolat with cherries and a shorter-than-short cocoa biscuit, or a deep, rich crème brûlée, yellow with yolks. If that doesn't hit the sweet spot, the news that Ophelia is 'fancy enough to feel like a treat but simple enough you could eat there every week' certainly should.
