Old Stamp House
Ambleside, Cumbria
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Some things are worth the wait. Dinner at the Old Stamp House is one of them. Ryan Blackburn is a chef cooking with such consistent flair that securing a table at the restaurant he runs with his brother, Craig, requires deft forward-planning. But stick with it because to eat in this rough-walled, cleverly lit, almost subterranean dining room is to experience food, wine and service of the highest order. Don’t expect the rigmarole of fine dining, though, rather a fresh informality and genuine friendliness. Ten outstanding courses sing lustily of the brothers’ love for their home county of Cumbria. Each one celebrates the region’s fells, forests, fields and culinary heritage, and Craig's wine pairings are the finishing touch. As autumn slips into winter, Herdwick hogget shoulder is braised down, stuffed generously into a glazed lamb-fat bun, and served with a Madeira-warmed lamb broth that's poured, clear as amber, into a chunky cup. It’s robust and voluptuous, although a perky mint and anchovy emulsion tames any richness. Lakeland waters surrender all manner of fish. Arctic char, seaweed-cured and vividly fresh, comes with compressed apple, pickled cucumber and glistening trout roe, a shower of fresh horseradish quickening the flavours. More char is potted and wrapped in a shatteringly fine brik pastry cylinder that’s dotted with horseradish cream and roe. Morecambe Bay brown shrimps are potted too, to accompany a bouncy scallop that arrives topped with a snappy shellfish cracker in a warmly curried mead velouté, while mussels give heart and savoury soul to the cream sauce beneath an impossibly perfect piece of cod garlanded with crisp kale. The meat course leads into deep boskiness. Tucked up with seared venison is a sliver-thin celeriac pocket packed with spinach and hen of the woods; to one side, the shredded shank is folded into a celeriac and truffle mousse. It is thumpingly, memorably delicious. Flavours of raspberry, meadowsweet and apple marigold refresh the palate before a pear soufflé – an ethereal masterclass – is doused with rippling chocolate sauce and topped with a scoop of bright blackberry sorbet. All that planning ahead is worth it.
