Ocean Restaurant
Jersey
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The Atlantic Hotel is tucked away in the upmarket St Brelade district of Jersey, looking toward the Rue de la Pulente and the beach from a stand-offish distance. Inside, an old-school tone prevails, with attentive, well-drilled but friendly, service in the expansive spaces of the Ocean Restaurant. Here, menus are formulated to suit every eventuality, from a taster highlighting Jersey produce to a short 'market menu', vegetarian/vegan offerings and a carte. A certain air of restrained classicism pervades Will Holland's dishes, best witnessed in a first course of delicate asparagus mousse with fried quail's eggs and truffle-dressed saladings. For the main business, a plaice fillet could be doused in dashi, sesame and pink ginger with turned Jersey Royals as accompaniment, or there might be guinea fowl two ways – roast breast and a pastilla of the confit leg – with garlic purée and morel cream sauce. Desserts are very much the grand finale, with bursts of inventive flair in the likes of oolong-tea namelaka with lemon bavarois and black-sesame ice cream. A thoroughly encyclopaedic wine list strays well beyond France, even to the extent of anatomising Germany into its regions (more or less unheard of now). The glass selections represent a decent range of flavours and quality levels, from good to outstanding.
