Noto
Edinburgh, Lothians
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Stuart Ralston, chef-patron of Aizle in the Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel, has his own way of doing things at this endearingly small, minimally designed bar-restaurant. Open all day, Noto mixes New York style with a love of Asian flavours, while its combination of unfussy cooking with a casual vibe, efficient service and an excellent drinks list makes for an appealing package. A short, straightforward menu of small plates, all designed for sharing, might range from white North Sea crabmeat with good sourdough (to mop up all that hot, buttery richness) via beef tartare with Jerusalem and black garlic to chicken yakitori with umeboshi plum and egg yolk. Three larger plates such as Welsh wagyu accompanied by wild garlic, wild leek and keta caviar are also offered – although the full-on flavour of a fried buttermilk chicken katsu sandwich with kimchi was the standout for one inspector. As for dessert, it has to be fried apple pie with tatin ice cream (if it's available) – or, perhaps, a combo of pumpkin, pecan and salted caramel. Sip one of the zesty cocktails or pick from the well-priced selection of wines from small-domain European producers.
