No Name
Sheffield, South Yorkshire
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
The (no) name is a teaser, in fact this converted shop in Sheffield’s Crookes district is full of eccentric touches: they don’t take cards, wine is strictly BYO (£2 corkage per person), the menu is handwritten on a wall-mounted roll of brown paper, and the whole place is a jumble of mismatched furniture that might have come from a local auction. Chef-owner Thomas Samworth works solo in a pint-sized kitchen hidden behind a drape, but his food shows plenty of ambition, creativity and individual character. Seasonal flavours loom large, from charred mackerel with Yorkshire rhubarb, horseradish and dill buttermilk or asparagus with brown butter and Marmite hollandaise to cod loin with confit new potatoes, baby spinach and grape sauce. There’s always something intriguing for veggies (how about spiced baked celeriac with brown lentil and coconut curry), while sweet treats could include caramelised white chocolate parfait with smoked caramel or vanilla panna cotta with poached peach, blackcurrant meringues and basil. Space is at a premium, and bookings are essential if you want to grab one of the two-hour slots in the ‘early’ or ‘late’ sittings.
