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Naughty Piglets

London, Brixton - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

The Other Naughty Piglet may have closed its doors for good in Victoria, but the original is still rocking in Brixton. The energy of this place hits you as soon as you step through the door, in fact it’s the very model of a new-breed London neighbourhood eatery – a noisy, jam-packed cave-like space with rough brick walls, tight seating, an open kitchen and a bar in the basement. Lyon-born Margaux Aubry and Joe Sharratt met while working at Trinity in nearby Clapham: she takes care of the natural wines; he oversees the cooking. Dishes may be small and delicate but they ‘pack a punch’, with British produce to the forefront but no limits when it comes to ingredients and influences. Devon crab could be expertly combined with crunchy raw cabbage, peanut satay and yuzu, while unctuous steamed pork belly arrives as ‘glorious ribbons of meat and fat’ fired up with Korean spices and sesame. The kitchen is free to roam, fashioning everything from plump, garlic...

The Other Naughty Piglet may have closed its doors for good in Victoria, but the original is still rocking in Brixton. The energy of this place hits you as soon as you step through the door, in fact it’s the very model of a new-breed London neighbourhood eatery – a noisy, jam-packed cave-like space with rough brick walls, tight seating, an open kitchen and a bar in the basement. Lyon-born Margaux Aubry and Joe Sharratt met while working at Trinity in nearby Clapham: she takes care of the natural wines; he oversees the cooking. Dishes may be small and delicate but they ‘pack a punch’, with British produce to the forefront but no limits when it comes to ingredients and influences. Devon crab could be expertly combined with crunchy raw cabbage, peanut satay and yuzu, while unctuous steamed pork belly arrives as ‘glorious ribbons of meat and fat’ fired up with Korean spices and sesame. The kitchen is free to roam, fashioning everything from plump, garlicky chicken Kyiv with cauliflower to a veggie dish of earthy girolles, fire-licked BBQ corn and Parmesan in mushroom dashi that yielded ‘stealthy but well-balanced flavours’. Desserts are bit-part players, perhaps rich white chocolate mousse offset by a sweet, sharp berry ‘gazpacho’. Those natural wines are stored in a ‘dungeon’ and there’s no list as such – so take expert advice from one of the clued-up, tuned in staff: a Georgian Tsolikouri has proved ‘extremely quaffable’ on a steaming hot day.

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VENUE DETAILS

28 Brixton Water Lane
Brixton
SW2 1PEGB

020 7274 7796

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Dog friendly, Credit card required

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