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Morston Hall

Norfolk, Morston - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

It’s astonishing how Galton Blackiston has managed to keep Morston Hall at the top of its game for so long. Norfolk-born and self-taught, Blackiston refurbished and opened this 18th-century mansion as a hotel-restaurant in 1991 (while still in his 20s), and his exquisitely balanced take on haute cuisine continues to impress after more than 30 years. Despite a starry procession of head chefs by his side, things here are very much on Blackiston's terms: apart from Sunday lunch, you must come at 6.45pm (for canapés before a 7.30pm start) and dine from a no-choice, daily changing tasting menu of seven courses. Ingredient-dislikes and intolerances are catered for (let them know in advance), but if you follow a dairy-free or vegan diet head elsewhere. That said, some of the dishes at an inspection dinner were sublime. Tempura-battered hake (part of a trio of perfectly formed morsels to kick off the meal) displayed the most fragile of translucent batters around succulent fish; to...

It’s astonishing how Galton Blackiston has managed to keep Morston Hall at the top of its game for so long. Norfolk-born and self-taught, Blackiston refurbished and opened this 18th-century mansion as a hotel-restaurant in 1991 (while still in his 20s), and his exquisitely balanced take on haute cuisine continues to impress after more than 30 years. Despite a starry procession of head chefs by his side, things here are very much on Blackiston's terms: apart from Sunday lunch, you must come at 6.45pm (for canapés before a 7.30pm start) and dine from a no-choice, daily changing tasting menu of seven courses. Ingredient-dislikes and intolerances are catered for (let them know in advance), but if you follow a dairy-free or vegan diet head elsewhere. That said, some of the dishes at an inspection dinner were sublime. Tempura-battered hake (part of a trio of perfectly formed morsels to kick off the meal) displayed the most fragile of translucent batters around succulent fish; to follow, tomato consommé was a stunningly beautiful distillation of summer, including a little scoop of tomato sorbet, pellets of fresh courgette and globules of basil oil. Elsewhere, a supremely refreshing pre-dessert ‘soup’ of Champagne, elderflower and cucumber also hit the seasonal heights, although not everything scored a bullseye. Whether barbecued Brancaster lobster is ideally accompanied by a sweetish curry sauce and golden sultanas is questionable, but the peerless quality of the bread (there's no extra charge if you ask for more), and the profoundly flavourful gravy (in a dish of mouthwateringly pink Yorkshire lamb, with sweetbread, violet artichoke, local asparagus and black olive caramel) prove that the chefs take care – and show abundant skill – with the basics. See them at their meticulous work through a window in an anteroom. The dining area stretches over four rooms: three serene spaces within the main building and an even lighter conservatory where views of the glorious garden compete for attention with a portrait of Blackiston himself. Wine pairings are offered from from a suitably well-chosen list, and the waiting staff, though exhibiting differing levels of experience, are invariably polite and attentive.

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VENUE DETAILS

The Street
Morston
Norfolk
NR25 7AAGB

01263 741041

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Dog friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required

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