Morston Hall
Morston, Norfolk
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
It’s astonishing how Galton Blackiston has managed to keep Morston Hall at the top of its game for so long. Norfolk-born and self-taught, Blackiston refurbished and opened this 18th-century mansion as a hotel-restaurant in 1991 (while still in his 20s), and his exquisitely balanced take on haute cuisine continues to impress after more than 30 years. Despite a starry procession of head chefs by his side, things here are very much on Blackiston's terms: apart from Sunday lunch, you must come at 6.45pm (for canapés before a 7.30pm start) and dine from a no-choice, daily changing tasting menu of seven courses. Ingredient-dislikes and intolerances are catered for (let them know in advance), but if you follow a dairy-free or vegan diet head elsewhere. That said, some of the dishes at an inspection dinner were sublime. Tempura-battered hake (part of a trio of perfectly formed morsels to kick off the meal) displayed the most fragile of translucent batters around succulent fish; to follow, tomato consommé was a stunningly beautiful distillation of summer, including a little scoop of tomato sorbet, pellets of fresh courgette and globules of basil oil. Elsewhere, a supremely refreshing pre-dessert ‘soup’ of Champagne, elderflower and cucumber also hit the seasonal heights, although not everything scored a bullseye. Whether barbecued Brancaster lobster is ideally accompanied by a sweetish curry sauce and golden sultanas is questionable, but the peerless quality of the bread (there's no extra charge if you ask for more), and the profoundly flavourful gravy (in a dish of mouthwateringly pink Yorkshire lamb, with sweetbread, violet artichoke, local asparagus and black olive caramel) prove that the chefs take care – and show abundant skill – with the basics. See them at their meticulous work through a window in an anteroom. The dining area stretches over four rooms: three serene spaces within the main building and an even lighter conservatory where views of the glorious garden compete for attention with a portrait of Blackiston himself. Wine pairings are offered from from a suitably well-chosen list, and the waiting staff, though exhibiting differing levels of experience, are invariably polite and attentive.
