Môr

Swansea

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A classy little oasis on the main road along Mumbles seafront that channels a bistro vibe with banquette seating, a touch of exposed brickwork and shades of salmon and teal. It's upmarket, too, without being prissy, and the service is impeccable. The menu encourages indulgence: before the main act there are ‘snacks’ such as plump Pembrokeshire oysters, lamb belly skewers brightened with cumin, Szechuan oil and verdant mint sauce, or crunchy, melt-in-the mouth Comté croquettes with a zingy pineapple ketchup. The cooking is largely European, but frequently reaches further afield – as in a meat-free main of barbecued aubergine with coconut and tamarind, lime pickle, pakora and chapati. The attention to detail extends to extras, from springy, crusty bread with miso butter and vivid wild garlic oil to an amuse-bouche involvng a wafer cone filled with roast shallot and smoked cream-cheese custard. Elsewhere, a croûton-topped starter of Pant-Ysgawn ravioli with Wye Valley asparagus, preserved lemon and sauce grenobloise places luscious local ingredients to the fore. The same could be said of a main of Myrddin heritage pork with tare (a foraged vetch), Pwdin Du black pudding sausage roll, spiky piccalilli purée and succulent braised leek. The cooking artfully treads the line between refinement and sheer pleasure: a dessert of banana bread with miso-roast banana and Barti rum cream is a case in point. You won’t leave hungry. The wine list offers broad geographical coverage and a good range of price points, with a decent selection by the glass. Also keep an eye open for Môr's occasional butchery and chef demos (in collaboration with Tuckers Butchers of Mumbles).