MJP@TheShepherds
Fen Ditton, Cambridgeshire
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There is something appealingly understated about MJP@TheShepherds. Mark J Poynton’s style has been shaped by the classical rigour of ‘fine dining’ (he previously fronted Alimentum in Cambridge), but in this converted roadside village pub – yes, there’s beer on tap and a separate bar area – he shows a more free-form, accessible side. Guests are encouraged to build their own tasting experience (dishes are available small or large), or let the chefs surprise with a seven-course ‘best of’ menu. The lunchtime two- or three-course set deal (with choice) is remarkably good value. No wonder the people of Fen Ditton rejoice: ‘friendly and casual,’ thought one; ‘a regular haunt for us,’ said another; while a third applauded the ‘innovative cooking at a reasonable price’. Informal it may be, but Poynton’s gastronomic polish shines. A little gougère sets the tone, a truffly, crisp-coated one-bite wonder – it could be two, but beware the river of gloriously molten cheese. Salmon, soft as butter, is dosed with minerally vigour from a seaweed cure, a refreshing flavour that’s amplified by caviar and a dill-flecked buttermilk sauce – it’s a pretty plate, too. A dish of onion seed-crusted bream doesn’t match for looks, but there’s a gentle sweetness to the fish that makes it a pleasure to eat, and there’s a welcome flash of greens from the spinach running through a chickpea ragù. Elsewhere, a spoonful of pork cheek delivers deep piggy joy, so too its accompanying belly; scooped through a burnt apple purée and a beautifully sweet-sharp choucroute, it's perfectly of the season. Creamy Beauvale blue cheese is a sublime partner for the mini apple tarte tatin that’s perched on top, its warmth nudging the cheese to slump, ripe and relaxed, on the plate. Finish with a classic – a dark chocolate fondant performs just as it should, although it’s the miso and the brown-butter ice cream that really shine, perfectly offsetting the richness. The wine list avoids overwhelming descriptions, unfamiliar territories and off-putting pricing; it's compact and easy to navigate, with 125ml pours around £6 and plenty of bottles in the £25-£35 bracket.
