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Medlock Canteen

Greater Manchester, Manchester - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Day-to-night easy eating in a funky, contemporary setting

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Manchester's inner-city development may have changed the city skyline but at ground level the space seems strangely soulless, yet here is a smartly kitted-out haven of funky warmth and exuberance. Its design aesthetic is a mash-up of French bistro and American diner, but once embedded in your oxblood-leather booth, with a bergamot Margarita in hand, you can consider the relatively short, plain-talking menu. Be prepared for an all-day compilation of uncomplicated but trend-aware favourites, from house beans on toast and duck egg hash to turkey schnitzel sandwiches and chip butties (with black truffle mayo, of course).  To begin, whipped cod’s roe with fried potato skins is a voluptuous enticement to over-eat, while a huge bowl of chicken noodle soup has an excellent stock base (although the noodles are strangely long and thin). Mains might include cod with mussels and beurre blanc or green eggs and ham. With limited availability, the menu also offers something called a 'staf...

Manchester's inner-city development may have changed the city skyline but at ground level the space seems strangely soulless, yet here is a smartly kitted-out haven of funky warmth and exuberance. Its design aesthetic is a mash-up of French bistro and American diner, but once embedded in your oxblood-leather booth, with a bergamot Margarita in hand, you can consider the relatively short, plain-talking menu. Be prepared for an all-day compilation of uncomplicated but trend-aware favourites, from house beans on toast and duck egg hash to turkey schnitzel sandwiches and chip butties (with black truffle mayo, of course). 

To begin, whipped cod’s roe with fried potato skins is a voluptuous enticement to over-eat, while a huge bowl of chicken noodle soup has an excellent stock base (although the noodles are strangely long and thin). Mains might include cod with mussels and beurre blanc or green eggs and ham. With limited availability, the menu also offers something called a 'staff dinner', a rather self-conscious insider's conceit, albeit an inexpensive one.

Rotisserie lamb and chicken both tempt but we found the latter lacking in character and swamped in a sickly-sweet jus. On the other hand, a succulent whole plaice on the bone showed masterly timing, with a scattering of capers and parsley adding some piquancy. The accompanying '50/50 brown butter mash' was also spectacularly good, and a bouquet of butterhead salad with blue cheese and walnut had a sharp, nutty dressing. 

Desserts have plenty of retro allure: a delicate trifle, grilled Eton mess or deep-fried cherry pie and miso custard, for example. Aside from cocktails and beers, drinkers have a short, all-French wine list to consider. As nearby building work proceeds, the Medlock Canteen will assuredly become a local favourite – especially as it's within walking distance of the city centre. 

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J Williams

10 May 2024

From 8am serving great breakfasts, to a rotisserie chicken to take home for tea. This friendly casual restaurant executes perfectly what the residents of Deansgate Towers need. Offering us discount if you live close by and always the most welcoming staff!

VENUE DETAILS

5 Owen Street, Deansgate Square
Manchester
Greater Manchester
M15 4YBGB

07780 310911

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Family friendly

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