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Mambow

London, Clapton - Malaysian - Restaurant - ££

An indie east London original serving masterful Malaysian food

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Exceptional

Chef Abby Lee’s modern Malaysian restaurant moved from Spitalfields to Peckham, before settling in Clapton in late 2023. The new digs are permanent but still not palatial. We reserved well over a month in advance but still failed to secure one of the few tables – so we ended up perching at high stools in the window with a sliver of a sill on which to balance plates. However, we'd endure such privations again and again for just one taste of the palourde clams bathed in a peppery, buttery broth or one more bite of frizzled beancurd stuffed with a sausage-like blend of five-spice pork and prawns. There are no more than a dozen small plates to choose from; between two, we ordered around half that number and found every dish worthy not only in its own right but in relation to the others. The balance across the menu is so carefully managed, from a vibrant kerabu ('five-ingredient' Malay salad) with slippery cuttlefish, dried shrimps and bursts of pomelo to tender tamarind-spiked...

Chef Abby Lee’s modern Malaysian restaurant moved from Spitalfields to Peckham, before settling in Clapton in late 2023. The new digs are permanent but still not palatial. We reserved well over a month in advance but still failed to secure one of the few tables – so we ended up perching at high stools in the window with a sliver of a sill on which to balance plates. However, we'd endure such privations again and again for just one taste of the palourde clams bathed in a peppery, buttery broth or one more bite of frizzled beancurd stuffed with a sausage-like blend of five-spice pork and prawns.

There are no more than a dozen small plates to choose from; between two, we ordered around half that number and found every dish worthy not only in its own right but in relation to the others. The balance across the menu is so carefully managed, from a vibrant kerabu ('five-ingredient' Malay salad) with slippery cuttlefish, dried shrimps and bursts of pomelo to tender tamarind-spiked lamb ribs that slide off the bone or deep-fried stone bass curry with a richly spiced sauce. Little extras such as a chilled Assam tea cocktail and sticky palm-sugar rice balls to finish should not be overlooked either.

Lee herself, incidentally, wasn't in the open kitchen on our visit, so all credit to her team. Service is friendly and confident; our waiter steered us, without judgement, towards the less ‘natural’ wines on Mambow’s short, sub-£60 list. An independent east London original.

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VENUE DETAILS

78 Lower Clapton Road
Clapton
E5 0RNGB

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Credit card required

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