Lympstone Manor
Lympstone, Devon
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'To sit on the south-facing terrace overlooking Lympstone's vineyards and the Exe estuary, and drink a glass of Michael Caines’ own sparkling wine, is a treat possible even on a sunny winter’s day,' declared an inspector, capturing the essence of the Manor's appeal. With a trio of elegantly fitted dining rooms, and a bevy of formal but confidence-inspiring staff, it is clear that Caines is in expansive mood here. A glance at the lunchtime taster menu amplified that, with galantine of quail acting as outrider for a dazzling main course of venison loin with fig purée, glazed salsify, chestnuts and jasmine sauce. There's an impressive balance of delicate texture and forthright flavour in combinations such as crab ravioli with grapefruit in lemongrass and ginger, or the Creedy Carver duck breast that comes with an apple galette in a jus scented with five-spice and honey. Desserts are architecturally stunning compositions of chestnut mousse, milk chocolate Chantilly, tonka-bean ice cream and bergamot (today's spin on Mont Blanc), but could equally well be as unapologetically old-school as an air-cushioned pistachio soufflé with matching ice cream. A poolside restaurant has now come on-stream and, at nearby Exmouth, Mickey's Beach Bar looks a waterside treat – although it will take us a while to get used to thinking of Mr Caines as Mickey. The Lympstone blanc de blancs and rosé sparklers head up a list that is resplendent in quality and imagination for those with the readies. Fine wines by the small glass are a flawless bunch.
