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Lympstone Manor

Devon, Lympstone - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££

Michael Caines' classy Regency-style flagship overlooking the Exe estuary

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Exceptional

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Lympstone is an august, largely Georgian manor house in shimmering crème fraîche, once the ancestral residence of the Anglo-German banking dynasty, the Barings. With the addition of landscaped grounds, shaded verandas and a turret, the place became a Regency cynosure, and its acquisition a decade ago by Michael Caines MBE has seen it glide seamlessly into the country-hotel genre, with extensive vineyards centred on sparkling wine production and woodland huts overlooking the Exe estuary. The tranquillity of the setting makes it a cinch for a summer visit, the old-school silver-ish service in chandeliered dining rooms helping create an atmosphere of refined civility. Representing Caines in the kitchen is Jordan Denning, who executes the finely wrought culinary style with immaculate attention to detail. If dishes appear a little country-house delicate on the menu, they put any such impression to flight on the plate. Robust, emphatic flavours boom out from the confit of ...

Lympstone is an august, largely Georgian manor house in shimmering crème fraîche, once the ancestral residence of the Anglo-German banking dynasty, the Barings. With the addition of landscaped grounds, shaded verandas and a turret, the place became a Regency cynosure, and its acquisition a decade ago by Michael Caines MBE has seen it glide seamlessly into the country-hotel genre, with extensive vineyards centred on sparkling wine production and woodland huts overlooking the Exe estuary. The tranquillity of the setting makes it a cinch for a summer visit, the old-school silver-ish service in chandeliered dining rooms helping create an atmosphere of refined civility.

Representing Caines in the kitchen is Jordan Denning, who executes the finely wrought culinary style with immaculate attention to detail. If dishes appear a little country-house delicate on the menu, they put any such impression to flight on the plate. Robust, emphatic flavours boom out from the confit of Loch Duart salmon in its own ponzu-laced consommé with wasabi yoghurt, honey and soy vinaigrette and dab of oscietra caviar. Roasted quail is piled onto a tartlet with smoked bacon and onion confit, underpinned by the throb of black truffle.

Main courses are classically founded, each meat with its intensely reduced jus (Madeira for the Creedy Carver chicken; lamb stock and thyme for Powderham new season's lamb), while braised turbot comes with a chive butter sauce, white asparagus, peas and morels for a supple balance of fresh and earthy notes. Jivara mousse with blood-orange sorbet (a classic combination of chocolate and citrus) doesn't have to wait for Christmas to come on stream, while the time-hallowed temperature contrast of ice cream meeting hot soufflé (both of pistachio) is the last word in sensuality.

The stunning wine list recognises no frontiers to its ambitious reach, at mark-ups that will do nothing at all to surprise you. Recommendations by the small glass (from £12.50) are not the most thrilling, but the prestige selection (made available via a gas-control system) offers a peep into the cellar's glorious hinterland.

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VENUE DETAILS

Courtlands Lane
Lympstone
Devon
EX8 3NZGB

01395 202040

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Credit card required

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