Lumière
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
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It’s easy to walk past this ‘hidden gem’, so tastefully understated is its sign. Once inside, the dining room is a symphony of soothing grey, with damask covered tables, statement mirrors and shining silverware. However, there’s nothing 'grayscale' about chef Jon Howe’s 'detailed, expertly crafted and playful cooking', which is showcased in a choice of three tasting menus. The restaurant celebrates its 15th birthday in 2024, and Howe’s cooking has climbed to new heights since the chef took on his own smallholding during lockdown, allowing for a more committed and expansive farm-to-table experience. Homegrown produce is beautifully presented in say, a canapé of coronation carrot with a delightfully light lemon curry marinade, apricot purée, yoghurt and pickled sultanas encased in a crispy waffle case made with local pale ale. Or how about a cottage pie of slow-cooked Wiltshire beef with diced root vegetables topped with a celeriac mousse, blue Wensleydale and a sourdough crumb. Exquisitely delicate tuiles in bold colours add a certain wow factor to a dessert billed as ‘forced rhubarb, ginger, Orelys chocolate and sorrel’ – a simple description that belies a dazzling display of skill while creating a panoply of textures and flavours. Howe’s commitment to local and sustainable food is explained in detail in the menu notes that accompany each course – read them on a tablet left on your table. Service is smartly professional, yet warm and personal – the staff brim with cheerful enthusiasm. A carefully curated selection of wines is offered in a series of good-value flights, or by the glass and bottle. If you’re driving, various homemade herbal ‘jukes’ designed to mimic different varieties of white wine are a fun alternative to booze.
