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Lovage

Derbyshire, Bakewell - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Having made his mark in St Helier, chef Lee Smith has moved from tax haven to green heaven. Bakewell, not far from his Nottingham roots, provides the backdrop (a former fabric shop with original panelling and an air of solidity), while Smith's team bring the atmospheric lighting, the 90s soundtrack, and then a well-fired granary roll with lovage butter to open culinary proceedings. The carte and tasting menus show off solid technique and thoughtful combinations, with standouts ranging from a cockle-warming halibut dish with braised oxtail, sherry vinegar and parsnip purée crunched-up with petals of Brussels sprout to free-range duck with turnips galore and the background hum of pistachio. In the home of the Bakewell pudding, desserts display commitment in the form of Basque cheesecake with blackberries or chocolate parfait given range with Jerusalem artichoke ice cream, cep powder and an irresistible seam of caramel. Service is willing, wines might be biodynamic or otherwis...

Having made his mark in St Helier, chef Lee Smith has moved from tax haven to green heaven. Bakewell, not far from his Nottingham roots, provides the backdrop (a former fabric shop with original panelling and an air of solidity), while Smith's team bring the atmospheric lighting, the 90s soundtrack, and then a well-fired granary roll with lovage butter to open culinary proceedings. The carte and tasting menus show off solid technique and thoughtful combinations, with standouts ranging from a cockle-warming halibut dish with braised oxtail, sherry vinegar and parsnip purée crunched-up with petals of Brussels sprout to free-range duck with turnips galore and the background hum of pistachio. In the home of the Bakewell pudding, desserts display commitment in the form of Basque cheesecake with blackberries or chocolate parfait given range with Jerusalem artichoke ice cream, cep powder and an irresistible seam of caramel. Service is willing, wines might be biodynamic or otherwise interesting, and there's plenty to like on the zero-booze side too.

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VENUE DETAILS

Bath Street
Bakewell
Derbyshire
DE45 1DSGB

01629 815613

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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