Lovage
Bakewell, Derbyshire
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Having made his mark in St Helier, chef Lee Smith has moved from tax haven to green heaven. Bakewell, not far from his Nottingham roots, provides the backdrop (a former fabric shop with original panelling and an air of solidity), while Smith's team bring the atmospheric lighting, the 90s soundtrack, and then a well-fired granary roll with lovage butter to open culinary proceedings. The carte and tasting menus show off solid technique and thoughtful combinations, with standouts ranging from a cockle-warming halibut dish with braised oxtail, sherry vinegar and parsnip purée crunched-up with petals of Brussels sprout to free-range duck with turnips galore and the background hum of pistachio. In the home of the Bakewell pudding, desserts display commitment in the form of Basque cheesecake with blackberries or chocolate parfait given range with Jerusalem artichoke ice cream, cep powder and an irresistible seam of caramel. Service is willing, wines might be biodynamic or otherwise interesting, and there's plenty to like on the zero-booze side too.
