Loch Bay
Isle of Skye, Highlands & Islands
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There can hardly be a lovelier spot. Set on the beautiful Waternish peninsula at the northerly reaches of the Isle of Skye, Loch Bay (the restaurant) is located in a terrace of whitewashed cottages on the shores of the eponymous loch, in the conservation village of Stein. Michael and Laurence Smith relocated here in 2016 after Michael’s 11-year tenure at the acclaimed Three Chimneys where, for a time, he stood as Scotland’s food ambassador. In contrast to his last posting, petit Loch Bay has no more than half a dozen tables in a charming, informal dining room that's somewhat at odds with Smith’s refined cooking. Delivered across a multi-course ‘Skye Fruits de Mer’ tasting menu that is described as ‘contemporary Scottish with a French twist’, the Gallic influence shows first in a warm, freshly baked French baton served with smoked mackerel pâté; this could be followed by a terrific, crunchy oatmeal-coated oyster accompanied by a smoky seafood broth. Then plump 'twice-dived’ Sconser scallops – fished from deep, more nutritious waters for a fuller, fatter bivalve (a system unique to Skye) – are teamed with fennel, citrus and seaweed. A substantial pot au feu arrives with butter-grilled langoustines in a pot bursting with prawns, braised vegetables and, tucked in the bottom, crunchy little potato curls. Hake is paired with sweet razor clams and plump mussels, while lobster and monkfish perfectly complement each other in a delicate shrimp sauce. To finish, an autumnal tart of almond, apple and bramble is accompanied by frozen yoghurt and port jelly. It’s a glorious tour de force by Smith, showcasing the very best Scottish seafood. Wines can either be matched with each course or taken from a quality French-leaning list that starts at £28.
