Little Kochi

Cardiff

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If you’re looking for south Indian cooking in Cardiff, you’d do well to pick this lively neighbourhood restaurant. Expect little in the way of garnishes and arty flourishes – the workaday presentation doesn’t match their snazzy publicity pics – but the traditional Keralan dishes have what counts: irrepressible, complex flavours delivering a balance of fragrance and heat. Not every dish was perfect on our visit, but standouts included kallappam (a rice, coconut and cumin pancake-style bread), a Keralan dry-fry of tender beef strips coated in freshly ground spices and served with a curried mayo, and airy, crisp dosas with classic sambal and coconut chutney. Among the main courses, Kochin chicken – marinated in a classic turmeric and roasted coconut seasoning – stood out for tenderness and vivid flavours without too much heat. The buttery, just-charred naans are best in class too. For afters, the gorgeous homemade desserts are impossible to resist: try the cold-set coconut pudding with chocolate sauce or the mango pudding with chocolate, cashews and raisins. It’s all set against a backdrop of wood floors and simple pine furniture, with warmly enveloping, woven bamboo walls curving up to the ceiling, brightened by touches of greenery and twinkly birdcage lamps. Sadly, not all the staff are up to speed with the finer details of each dish, but the overall feeling is one of relaxation, indulgence and belt-loosening satisfaction.