Leftfield
Edinburgh, East Lothian
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Chef-patron Phil White made his name at seafood stalwart Fishers in Leith, and brings his love of fish cookery to this modest restaurant in the heart of the city – with help from his front-of-house partner Rachel Chisholm. LeftField sets out its stall as a warmly welcoming neighbourhood bistro – the room hummed with relaxed chatter and there was a cool guitar-led soundtrack when we visited. Huge picture windows frame a tree-trimmed view of Edinburgh's ancient volcano (aka Arthur's Seat), the paintwork is bottle green, the long bench lining one wall is cushioned in a Granny Smith hue, and the window boxes outside are plugged with hellebores and heucheras. While there are concessions to meat eaters (slow-cooked beef brisket, say) and vegetarians (roast cauliflower with ginger-spiced butternut squash purée and cashew dukkah), seafood is the star of the show. To begin, a curl of warm and tender chargrilled octopus on a mound of garlicky baba ganoush sprinkled with sesame seeds and fennel crunch (with just a hint of heat) is plate-scrapingly good, while a delicate dish of sea trout comes topped with braised fennel on a bed of creamy pea-green pearl barley plus a skilfully subtle side of chargrilled broccoli and lemon. Even better is a meatier, more substantial chunk of large-flaked roast cod with white beans, chorizo and crispy capers. From the small dessert menu (a choice of three plus cheese), the must-try option is the chocolate mousse with whipped caramel and shortbread – a sort of wickedly moreish, deconstructed millionaire's shortbread. The carefully curated wine list homes in on France and Spain (with a brief foray to the Lebanon) while shining the spotlight on organic and biodynamic producers.
