Lanterna

Scarborough, North Yorkshire

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A ristorante of the old school, its half-blinded windows surmounted by a profusion of flowers, Lanterna was bought by Giorgio Alessio in 1997 when it was already a Scarborough fixture. La Stampa called it 'the English temple of Italian cuisine', and there is a pleasingly retro feel to the decor, as well as a disinclination to stand on ceremony that fuses the respective cultural styles of Italy and Yorkshire. Exemplary pastas such as tagliolini with veal and pecorino, or carnaroli risotto with porcini, lie at the heart of the menu, following a roll-call of appetising antipasti, and the kinds of main dishes that hark back unabashedly to the earliest days of Italian dining in Britain. Expect chicken breast with Gorgonzola and Parma ham, or strips of beef fillet in mushrooms and cream. Fish is all local and immaculately fresh. At the close, a hit parade of zabaglione and panna cotta awaits, as does baked pear with a syrup of Barbera wine. Drink Italian wines, of course.