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Kitchen W8

London, Kensington - Modern European - Restaurant - £££

Special-occasion neighbourhood spot with French soul

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

‘A haven of cultural tanquillity’ and a ‘landmark for the Kensington community’, Kitchen W8 is the flagship restaurant of the vastly experienced business partnership of Rebecca Mascarenhas and chef Philip Howard. With its linened tables, plain cream walls, ornate mirrors and contemporary art, it wouldn't look out of place on a quiet street in Mayfair – yet it also manages to perform the role of a special-occasion neighbourhood spot to perfection. ‘Our style,’ write the hosts, ‘is modern English with a French soul,’ hitting a popular gastronomic nail on the head, and there is an impressive balance of the earthy and the refined in the cooking that exerts a strong appeal. Scorch a Cornish mackerel and add to it some smoked eel with golden beets and bitter leaves, and it's hard for many to resist. Pasta work is executed with particular aplomb, perhaps for a first course of pigeon raviolo with pickled pear and sweet-sour shall...

‘A haven of cultural tanquillity’ and a ‘landmark for the Kensington community’, Kitchen W8 is the flagship restaurant of the vastly experienced business partnership of Rebecca Mascarenhas and chef Philip Howard. With its linened tables, plain cream walls, ornate mirrors and contemporary art, it wouldn't look out of place on a quiet street in Mayfair – yet it also manages to perform the role of a special-occasion neighbourhood spot to perfection.

‘Our style,’ write the hosts, ‘is modern English with a French soul,’ hitting a popular gastronomic nail on the head, and there is an impressive balance of the earthy and the refined in the cooking that exerts a strong appeal. Scorch a Cornish mackerel and add to it some smoked eel with golden beets and bitter leaves, and it's hard for many to resist. Pasta work is executed with particular aplomb, perhaps for a first course of pigeon raviolo with pickled pear and sweet-sour shallots. Prime materials are top-drawer, extending from 60-day Dexter sirloin or venison haunch with red cabbage and quince to a gently handled fillet of brill that comes with caramelised cauliflower and chestnut gnocchi in truffled leek velouté.

At dessert, leafy clementine sorbet with warm vanilla beignets caters for those who might wilt at the prospect of Valrhona chocolate pavé with salted-caramel ice cream, peanut praline and lime. A five-course tasting menu offers a comprehensive tour of the kitchen's repertoire. By-the-glass wines rope in some on-trend varietals such as Grüner Veltliner, Albariño and Touriga Nacional, before the main list hits the highlights, never forgetting that the whole operation is powered by the aforementioned ‘French soul’.

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VENUE DETAILS

11-13 Abingdon Road
Kensington
W8 6AHGB

020 7937 0120

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, No background music, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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