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Killiecrankie House

Perthshire & Kinross, Killiecrankie - Modern Scottish - Restaurant with rooms - ££££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Exceptional

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Tucked off a small track on the old road to the Highlands, Killiecrankie House eschews the image of a fusty, rural lodge in favour of elegant revitalisation. Co-owners Tom Tsappis and Matilda Ruffle began their sweeping transformation by renovating what was a faded hotel into a glistening restaurant with rooms. As the first commercial venture for the couple, the ambition is comprehensive and striking. In the bar, pink Murano glass leaves dangle over the marble-topped counter and the pre-prandials being drained beneath, while the dark, cosseting dining room is laid with mid-century furnishings that invite diners to peer into a shining, open kitchen. Behind these stoves, Tsappis and his small team take a lengthy, narrative approach to feeding the room – think elaborate sonnet, not punchy haiku. Across 13 or so courses, dishes flit between land and sea, raiding the Scottish larder with the enthusiasm now demanded of cooking at this level. Venison, appearing as both port-glazed loin ...

Tucked off a small track on the old road to the Highlands, Killiecrankie House eschews the image of a fusty, rural lodge in favour of elegant revitalisation. Co-owners Tom Tsappis and Matilda Ruffle began their sweeping transformation by renovating what was a faded hotel into a glistening restaurant with rooms. As the first commercial venture for the couple, the ambition is comprehensive and striking. In the bar, pink Murano glass leaves dangle over the marble-topped counter and the pre-prandials being drained beneath, while the dark, cosseting dining room is laid with mid-century furnishings that invite diners to peer into a shining, open kitchen. Behind these stoves, Tsappis and his small team take a lengthy, narrative approach to feeding the room – think elaborate sonnet, not punchy haiku. Across 13 or so courses, dishes flit between land and sea, raiding the Scottish larder with the enthusiasm now demanded of cooking at this level. Venison, appearing as both port-glazed loin and tartare on a recent visit, is from the Urrard Estate, over the garden fence. Langoustines are from Skye, mussels from Shetland. Pheasant, appearing as an opening canapé, comes as a luscious, velveteen pâté, laced with the acidic tang of black garlic, and balanced with earthy chestnut. A single mouthful, but beautifully put together. Later courses show humour (a small jelly mouse dissolving in a jug of hot broth) but, more importantly, technical skill. A chawanmushi (savoury Japanese custard) sits just on the right side of set, using the rich umami of miso to balance its sumptuous, creamy depth, while an equally luxurious risotto opts for pine nuts as a base, adding butter and bite to a plate topped with delicately pine-smoked oyster mushrooms, balanced with bursts of tart redcurrant. Drink pairings could be signature wines, a range of non-alcoholic creations or an eclectic assortment that takes in cider, sake, beer and less traditional vineyards – including bottles from Matilda Ruffle’s family vineyard in China. A diverse list is also available, including a dozen or so by-the-glass options and a couple of pages of bottles that start in the £40 bracket and barrel upwards to the mid-hundreds. Guidance offered on these reflects the well-informed, light-hearted and friendly service from the entire team.

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A Gregory

16 October 2024

We stayed at the accommodation available on the basis of wanting to eat here and break our journey to Skye. Gorgeous place, great bedroom and intimate bar and restaurant with open kitchen. The food was exceptional, each course was explained and delivered by a rotating member of the team. A Japanese influence to the food which looked and tasted divine. Worth the trip.

VENUE DETAILS

Pass of Killiecrankie
Killiecrankie
Perthshire & Kinross
PH16 5LGGB

01796 473220

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Pre-payment required

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