Karrek
Rock, Cornwall
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Named after the Cornish word for rock, Karreck is the latest venture for chef Guy Owen (ex-Idle Rocks Hotel in St Mawes), a small monochrome dining room within the St Enodoc Hotel. In fine weather, it’s worth arriving early for drinks on the terrace of the more casual brasserie where you can lap up the widescreen views of the Camel Estuary. ‘A fabulous meal and fabulous service – fine dining without the fuss and crazy prices,’ is the considered opinion of one who ate here in high summer. To begin, ‘vibrant and accomplished’ Cornish snacks might include a delicate tartlet with confit potato, potato foam and marjoram powder, 'fresher than fresh' mackerel and Porthilly oyster nori taco topped with caviar, and a fish-and-chip ‘bite’; to finish, an outstanding take on a Viennetta involving rhubarb and white chocolate with sorrel ice cream. In between, there is Cornish crab with tomato, birch sap and dashi, ahead of ‘Mum’s favourite bouillabaisse’ – perfectly cooked John Dory in a saffron enriched sauce – and locally farmed roast chicken accompanied by a crisp, boned wing filled with herb mousse and seasonal asparagus (charred, fermented and raw). The wine list is considered and concise. In short, 'not one to miss.'
