Kai Mayfair
Mayfair, London
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London is not short of fine-dining Chinese restaurants nowadays but that wasn't the case in 1993, when Bernard Yeoh opened Kai. Despite its longevity, the kitchen (led by Alex Chow) does not rest on its laurels, continuing to innovate with dishes from the coastal territory of Nanyang (a region of southern China that influenced overseas Chinese cuisine particularly South East Asia). Popular dishes such as sweet-and-sour pork are given new twists, and highlights at inspection were a sea bass carpaccio with yee sang-style salad enlivened by a sweet plum and ginger dressing, followed by succulent lamb chops marinated with soy and honey, paired with a cucumber and carrot achar pickle. Taiwanese 'purple charm' aubergine with black bean sauce was another hit. Creativity stretches to desserts with an unusual soufflé combining durian with vanilla and salted caramel - 'it should not work but it does, in spades'. Located over two floors of a Mayfair townhouse, the ground-floor dining room is a tranquil space, arranged to feel intimate and with an air of exclusivity lent by soft grey carpets, subdued lighting, comfortable chairs and white linen on spacious tables. The basement is more glitzy with huge prints on the walls and a private dining area. Service is 'particularly good'. There are some superb wines on a list that features more reds than white, including an impressive vertical of Château Lafite. Prices start at £45.
