JoJo's
Whitstable, Kent
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Fetching views of the North Sea add to the pulling power of this relaxed seaside restaurant and brilliant local asset. It may occupy a position some way off the Whitstable tourist trail, but after 18 confident years, JoJo’s has made a definite mark on the local dining scene. Run with real warmth, loyal fans come as much for the hospitality as for Nikki Billington’s sure-footed, uncomplicated but satisfying cooking. At lunch, the long, simply decorated raftered room is filled with coastal light but is equally warm and welcoming at dinner when soft lighting and candles ramp up the atmosphere. The focus is on the careful sourcing of ingredients: regulars look to the printed list of please-all tapas for old favourites such as mutton and feta koftas, beer-battered calamari, charcuterie boards or homemade gnocchi with Parmesan, while the line-up of specials bristles with excitement. This is the place to find the likes of baked aubergines in a spicy tomato sauce with English halloumi, or chargrilled pigeon with mushrooms and leeks in a creamy tarragon sauce with garlic focaccia. Plaice fillets, served with spinach, samphire, mussels, brown shrimps and mustard sauce, was the stand-out dish at an autumn lunch that also included seafood croquettes (cod, white crabmeat, brown shrimps and mussels) and pan-fried fresh anchovies with paprika mayonnaise. As for dessert, there could be lemon posset or a surprisingly light sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream. The short wine list is kindly priced.
