Isca
Levenshulme , Greater Manchester
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Levenshulme is a multicultural urban patch bisected by the main arterial route from Manchester to Stockport. Picturesque is not the word that springs to the lips, nor is affluent, but it has a scattering of artisan food outlets – if this is an indication of growing gentrification then it’s to be welcomed as a corrective to yet another fried chicken shop. Isca occupies tiny premises: one stride and you’ve walked past. The inside is less doll's house than shoebox, with a large counter taking up most of the rather featureless space, plus two wooden tables and a few window seats. It’s a squeeze but a friendly one, and an admirable triumph of practical logistics, especially as there is no kitchen: oven behind the bar, counter-top hotplate, small prep area, wee scullery – that’s your lot. Whether Isca is a select wine bar/merchant turned restaurant or the other way round is moot, as the locally rooted owners have impressive sommelier and chef credentials, sharing their knowledge with unpretentious enthusiasm. Their natural wine list showcases superb, largely unknown bottles, while there is a lot of organic green stuff on the short, well-sourced menu (as well as the occasional meat or fish dish). The cooking is coherent and well-crafted, with a fundamental simplicity of approach and a dedication to pickling and ferments that ensures no food waste. A dish of rainbow carrots, Graceburn cheese, fermented honey and orange was elegantly presented, neither too sweet nor earthy but with a rich, sharp kick; we could say the same about a warming, spiced aubergine stew with harissa, cavolo nero and aïoli. Save some nutty Pollen sourdough for mopping up purposes. As one fan put it, Isca has 'a Parisian wine bar vibe on the A6'.
