Noble Rot Lambs Conduit
London, Bloomsbury - Modern European - Restaurant & Wine Bar - £££
World-class wines and compelling cooking from a modern classic
The Noble Rot concept is disarmingly simple: lay on modern bistro food with its roots in the French repertoire, add a massive portfolio of world-class wines at affordable prices, and they will come. Even when there are only a couple of early birds in, the atmosphere is already tingling – of course, it helps that staff are always warmly amiable and helpful. Here at the original Bloomsbury branch of the three NR siblings, the ambience of dark wood, framed graphic art and chalkboard specials invites due comparison with Parisian places, as does the lively, compelling cooking. One seafood aficionado ate a summer lunch of Brixham crab mayonnaise with crispy polenta and seaweed, ahead of braised Cornish turbot in a delightful sauce of oxidised Chablis Grand Cru (Dauvissat's 1988 ‘Les Clos’, no less), and emerged wondering what had taken her so long to get here. Other temptations have been smoked ox tongue with mustard cream and saladings, and mains ranging from ro...
The Noble Rot concept is disarmingly simple: lay on modern bistro food with its roots in the French repertoire, add a massive portfolio of world-class wines at affordable prices, and they will come. Even when there are only a couple of early birds in, the atmosphere is already tingling – of course, it helps that staff are always warmly amiable and helpful. Here at the original Bloomsbury branch of the three NR siblings, the ambience of dark wood, framed graphic art and chalkboard specials invites due comparison with Parisian places, as does the lively, compelling cooking.
One seafood aficionado ate a summer lunch of Brixham crab mayonnaise with crispy polenta and seaweed, ahead of braised Cornish turbot in a delightful sauce of oxidised Chablis Grand Cru (Dauvissat's 1988 ‘Les Clos’, no less), and emerged wondering what had taken her so long to get here. Other temptations have been smoked ox tongue with mustard cream and saladings, and mains ranging from roast Landes guinea fowl in Madeira with celeriac and truffle to tenderly juicy pheasant with chestnuts and soft polenta. The chocolate mousse cake is as irresistible a menu fixture as it was when it first appeared, but Basque cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb will run it close.
And then we come to the wines. With taster glasses for a couple of sips from £3, but rising to Daumas Gassac and Barolo aged a decade and more, there is a world of adventures better than roller coasters awaiting you. Bottle prices start at £27 for Iberian house selections, but if price is a mere frippery, aim your sights at the flotilla of Old and New World classics that follow.
R Venables
17 March 2025
The Morteau sausage main was deeply satisfying. Plump, pink & generous slices of sausage on tender, soupy lentils with a massive whollop of wholegrain mustard. Obviously all mopped up with Noble Rot's standout sourdough.
And finally, the Lemon Tart - this is 95% perfect. Served at room temp with a wobble to the lemon filling, the consistency of silken tofu and every so slightly burnished on top. If you were to find a criticism, it would be that the pastry was a tad crisp; but the flavour - just the right side of mouth-puckering with citrus and then sinking into sweet creaminess. A lovely match to the super-sweet Riesling.
This has gone right back up to the top of my recommendations for weekend lunching; the warm, authentically relaxed service is noteworthy, and I love the front bar where you can relax solo with a book and a lovely glass of something, forgetting the world outside. This restaurant is a class act!
VENUE DETAILS
51 Lamb’s Conduit Street
Bloomsbury
WC1N 3NB
020 7242 8963
OTHER INFORMATION
Separate bar, No background music, Credit card required
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