Hotel Tresanton

St Mawes, Cornwall

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A south-facing, pelargonium-festooned terrace overlooking the Fal estuary and St Anthony’s Lighthouse is just one of the myriad attractions at Olga Polizzi’s glamorous seaside bolthole – a honeypot for escaping townies and pleasure-seeking weekenders, especially those with a spot of sailing on their minds. Inside, the restaurant has its own swanky charms with a mosaic floor, nautical blue-and-white colour schemes and distinctive shell-shaped lights. Cornish seafood and meat from Cornish farms are the mainstays of the short daily menu, which offers a concise selection of vibrant, contemporary dishes with a strong European accent. Fish fans might set a course for crab tian with confit tomato, avocado and quail's eggs before tackling a whole lemon sole accompanied by purple sprouting broccoli, savoy cabbage, pancetta and mash. Following the seasons, others might prefer a bowl of watercress soup with broad beans ahead of Terras Farm duck with Anna potatoes and parsnips or fillet of beef with mushroom croquette, spinach and winter truffle. From the list of desserts, clotted cream tart sounds suitably Cornish, or you could go down the Mediterranean route with affogato di gelato. Pre-prandial cocktails are served in the lounge – or you could plunge straight into the cosmopolitan wine list, which has a strong Italian bias.