Host
Ilkley, West Yorkshire
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The brainchild of chef Joel Monkman, this neighbourhood restaurant and bar occupies one of Ilkley’s elegant townhouses. Inside, it has been given a cool, contemporary look with well-spaced tables, darkly muted colours and an eye-catching white fireplace adding a homely note. The menu is short, modern and seasonal, from snacks such as cauliflower leaf bhaji with buttermilk, garlic and dill dip to dessert cocktails. In between, expect the now-obligatory small plates (smoked beetroot tartare with sesame mayo and togarashi spice, say) and eclectic mains running from Korean-glazed pork belly with celeriac rémoulade, apple and miso purée to whole baked Cornish red mullet, which is given some zip with confit garlic butter and a red pepper and preserved lemon salad. Elsewhere, a bowl of prawn, mussel and squash tikka masala is partnered by bulgur wheat spiked with red onion and almonds. ‘Mid-week treats’ such as ‘winter stew and wine’ are worth considering, and at lunchtime you can drop by for some hipster BBQ buns. These are also one of the star attractions at Host’s takeaway pop-up, Joel’s Chicken & Buns. The short wine list is a good match for the food.
